As a teenager (when my natural hair color started to darken and I quickly started to dye it lighter) I was told every time I went to the salon that I used the bad products on my hair. The combination of regular bleaching sessions and a two-in-one silicone shampoo and conditioner wasn't enough, my stylist told me. She explained that even though my hair is soft and silky right now, prolonged use of silicones will lead to excessive product buildup, drier strands, and more breakage over time.
Silicones are rubbery polymers derived from quartz crystals, and Vanessa Thomas, a cosmetic chemist, explains that they're commonly used in shampoos, conditioners and styling products that help smooth hair and fight frizz. Unfortunately, silicone had become my new enemy ingredient, and while I thought my hair was beautiful, I erased it from my life shortly after that fateful date.
There have been a lot of concerns over the past few decades about silicones in hair products, some of which may be deserved. While cosmetic chemist Vince Spinnato assures Allure is completely safe, he also acknowledges that long-term use can affect the strength and appearance of your hair. “Heaviness, dryness, and hard-to-remove buildup are common issues with silicone,” she says, adding that silicone use has less to do with damage and more to do with personal preference.
New York hairstylist Shelby Samaria adds that silicones can instantly make your hair feel shiny and luxurious. The key to deciding if silicone hair products have a place in your routine, she explains, is knowing your hair type and understanding why they're being added to hair products in the first place.
What exactly are silicones and why are they added to hair products?
There are three types of silicones used in hair products: water-soluble, non-soluble, and evaporating (sometimes called volatile), all of which are added for a similar purpose. What sets them apart, in short, water-soluble silicones easily wash out of the hair with water, non-soluble silicones cannot be removed or penetrated by water, and silicones that evaporate (you have it guessed) evaporate from the hair before 10 minutes two . hours after application.
Silicones go by many names on a product's ingredient list. "A good rule of thumb is that most ingredients ending in '-cone' are non-water-soluble silicones, while ingredients with the PEG prefix are usually water-soluble silicones," says Spinnato. Examples of water-soluble silicones are stearoxydimethicone, dimethicone copolyol, dimethicone PEG-8 phosphate and PEG-7 amodimethicone. Common insoluble silicones include dimethicone, dimethiconol, stearyl dimethicone, cetyl dimethicone, cetearyl dimethicone, amodimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, and behenoxy dimethicone. Evaporating silicones are easier to spot because there are only three common names: cyclomethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, and cyclomethicone.
Water-soluble, insoluble, and evaporating silicones are added to hair care products because they form a thin, waterproof layer around the hair cuticle that keeps out environmental aggressors (eg, humidity). "This coating keeps the hair hydrated from within while preventing moisture from penetrating the hair shaft and causing frizz," says Spinnato. "Silicones also protect your hair from damage from hot styling appliances like hair dryers and flat irons."
Slightly different from the other two, evaporating silicones are added to formulas to distribute the product through the hair and then evaporate quickly, explains cosmetic chemist Génesis Velázquez. The fact that they don't need to be washed might explain why they are often left out of the silicone conversation. Velázquez adds that silicones, used specifically in hair care products, also improve the glide of detangling and add shine by creating a clean finish on individual strands.
Along with the anti-frizz abilities of silicone, Velázquez explains that silicones also help give products like conditioners a softer, more luxurious feel. "Silicones are raw materials that can be added to formulations to create emulsions in the silicone or oil at very high rates, forming a creamy, viscous, lotion-like consistency," she says. Thomas adds that it's a relatively inexpensive ingredient that delivers results without making the formula very expensive.
So, are silicones really that bad for your hair?
There is good news that all our experts agree on: silicones added to hair products are perfectly safe to use. "In terms of health, there is no evidence that silicones are harmful to humans when used as intended," says Thomas Locken. But just because silicones are safe doesn't necessarily mean they're a great long-term addition to your hair care routine.
To understand why silicones have such a bad reputation, it helps to understand how they work in the first place. “Silicones are hydrophobic, which means they repel water,” says Spinnato. "In your body, silicone displaces water and regrows it. When you do this in your hair, it reduces that precious moisture level by just 3%, and the protein bonds, which make up 97% of hair, become less stable and more "responsible for [long-term] disruption".
However, it is not so easy to classify them as "good" or "bad". Ultimately, your hair type and goals will determine which silicones are best for you and which should be avoided at all costs. “Soluble silicones primarily focus on adding shine and a conditioning effect, while non-soluble silicones are also said to protect the hair shaft by creating an occlusive layer, reducing frizz and smoothing the hair,” explains Marisa Garshick, certified dermatologist hairstylist. At New York. She explains that you'll find various silicones in the ingredient lists of many anti-frizz or straightening shampoos, conditioners, and hair serums.
Garshick warns that overuse of silicone-containing products (especially those containing insoluble dimethicone) can eventually cause buildup on the scalp, which can lead to issues like clogged pores and buildup in hair follicles. which can cause red bumps and tenderness. “Other problems that may be associated with buildup include an itchy, flaky and inflamed scalp, and in some cases the hair may become very dry due to insufficient moisture penetration, or it may appear fat if, paradoxically, they start to become more to produce oil,” he says.
Samaria tells Allure that she's seen this many times with her clients in the salon. "The instant shine and luxurious fullness we all love when using products containing silicones is often a temporary fix," she says, explaining that with long-term use, the buildup caused by non-soluble silicones weighs down the hair and breaks it can extend. . and loops
Thomas agrees, adding that silicones, when used in excess, do more than weigh hair down. "Because they form a 'film' around hair follicles, silicones can also prevent other beneficial ingredients from entering your hair, which can cause your other products to lose value over time if they aren't washed properly," she said. Spinnato adds that since silicones are designed to keep environmental aggressors away from the hair shaft, they also block out some not so good substances like oil, dirt, and dead skin cells. moral of the story? Moderation and a good cleansing schedule are key.
What hair types tolerate silicones best and who should avoid them altogether?
While silicones don't necessarily harm anyone's hair, Garshick says people with coarse, thick, curly, and dry hair typically get the best results from products that contain silicones. This is due to its ability to condition hair by reducing moisture loss, reduce frizz by making hair less sensitive to humidity, and help smooth, smooth and add shine to hair by reducing streaks. moisture on the surface of the hair.
Those with hair on either end of the texture spectrum — super fine and fine or super thick and curly — may want to be more careful. Garshick adds that regardless of silicone type or hair texture, it can be helpful to use silicone-free products a few times a week if you notice buildup or feel your hair feels weighed down.
Spinnato explains that using hair products with silicones is a balancing act, and while people with curly and Afro-textured hair can benefit from using non-dissolvable silicone hair products in the short term, the daily use is not long term or recommended. “Silicones get a bad rap for drying Afro-textured hair by locking in moisture,” she says. "Over time, the silicone can build up, leading to a feeling of dryness and a dull look. In fact, you may find that your hair becomes weaker and more prone to breakage.
Samaria backed up Spinnato, explaining that if you have low porosity hair, which is more common in people with wavy, curly, and frizzy textures, most of your hair cuticles are already closed. This already makes it difficult for moisture to penetrate the hair, so using an insoluble silicone like dimethicone (which forms an occlusive layer on the hair) makes it even more difficult over time. "To help your hair maintain light body and luxurious, effortless movement, it's important to keep silicones to a minimum," she says.
As counterintuitive as that may sound, Velázquez cautions, "One exception is people who tend to have more days between washes due to protective styling." She adds that those people may want to use products with non-dissolvable silicone and a moisture barrier to help style hold in place despite the elements.
For his part, Thomas explains that people with fine, fine, limp hair should not use silicones, or if they do, products with a water-soluble silicone like Cyclomethicone are the best options. "Thinner hair types generally have more oil flowing from the scalp into the hair shaft," she says. "As a result, applying too many silicone-containing products can weigh this type of hair down and make it look greasy and unkempt."
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Alexandra Daddario
As a teenager (when my natural hair color started to darken and I quickly started to dye it lighter) I was told every time I went to the salon that I used the bad products on my hair. The combination of regular bleaching sessions and a two-in-one silicone shampoo and conditioner wasn't enough, my stylist told me. She explained that even though my hair is soft and silky right now, prolonged use of silicones will lead to excessive product buildup, drier strands, and more breakage over time.
Silicones are rubbery polymers derived from quartz crystals, and Vanessa Thomas, a cosmetic chemist, explains that they're commonly used in shampoos, conditioners and styling products that help smooth hair and fight frizz. Unfortunately, silicone had become my new enemy ingredient, and while I thought my hair was beautiful, I erased it from my life shortly after that fateful date.
There have been a lot of concerns over the past few decades about silicones in hair products, some of which may be deserved. While cosmetic chemist Vince Spinnato assures Allure is completely safe, he also acknowledges that long-term use can affect the strength and appearance of your hair. “Heaviness, dryness, and hard-to-remove buildup are common issues with silicone,” she says, adding that silicone use has less to do with damage and more to do with personal preference.
New York hairstylist Shelby Samaria adds that silicones can instantly make your hair feel shiny and luxurious. The key to deciding if silicone hair products have a place in your routine, she explains, is knowing your hair type and understanding why they're being added to hair products in the first place.
What exactly are silicones and why are they added to hair products?
There are three types of silicones used in hair products: water-soluble, non-soluble, and evaporating (sometimes called volatile), all of which are added for a similar purpose. What sets them apart, in short, water-soluble silicones easily wash out of the hair with water, non-soluble silicones cannot be removed or penetrated by water, and silicones that evaporate (you have it guessed) evaporate from the hair before 10 minutes two . hours after application.
Silicones go by many names on a product's ingredient list. "A good rule of thumb is that most ingredients ending in '-cone' are non-water-soluble silicones, while ingredients with the PEG prefix are usually water-soluble silicones," says Spinnato. Examples of water-soluble silicones are stearoxydimethicone, dimethicone copolyol, dimethicone PEG-8 phosphate and PEG-7 amodimethicone. Common insoluble silicones include dimethicone, dimethiconol, stearyl dimethicone, cetyl dimethicone, cetearyl dimethicone, amodimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, and behenoxy dimethicone. Evaporating silicones are easier to spot because there are only three common names: cyclomethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, and cyclomethicone.
Water-soluble, insoluble, and evaporating silicones are added to hair care products because they form a thin, waterproof layer around the hair cuticle that keeps out environmental aggressors (eg, humidity). "This coating keeps the hair hydrated from within while preventing moisture from penetrating the hair shaft and causing frizz," says Spinnato. "Silicones also protect your hair from damage from hot styling appliances like hair dryers and flat irons."
Slightly different from the other two, evaporating silicones are added to formulas to distribute the product through the hair and then evaporate quickly, explains cosmetic chemist Génesis Velázquez. The fact that they don't need to be washed might explain why they are often left out of the silicone conversation. Velázquez adds that silicones, used specifically in hair care products, also improve the glide of detangling and add shine by creating a clean finish on individual strands.
Along with the anti-frizz abilities of silicone, Velázquez explains that silicones also help give products like conditioners a softer, more luxurious feel. "Silicones are raw materials that can be added to formulations to create emulsions in the silicone or oil at very high rates, forming a creamy, viscous, lotion-like consistency," she says. Thomas adds that it's a relatively inexpensive ingredient that delivers results without making the formula very expensive.
So, are silicones really that bad for your hair?
There is good news that all our experts agree on: silicones added to hair products are perfectly safe to use. "In terms of health, there is no evidence that silicones are harmful to humans when used as intended," says Thomas Locken. But just because silicones are safe doesn't necessarily mean they're a great long-term addition to your hair care routine.
To understand why silicones have such a bad reputation, it helps to understand how they work in the first place. “Silicones are hydrophobic, which means they repel water,” says Spinnato. "In your body, silicone displaces water and regrows it. When you do this in your hair, it reduces that precious moisture level by just 3%, and the protein bonds, which make up 97% of hair, become less stable and more "responsible for [long-term] disruption".
However, it is not so easy to classify them as "good" or "bad". Ultimately, your hair type and goals will determine which silicones are best for you and which should be avoided at all costs. “Soluble silicones primarily focus on adding shine and a conditioning effect, while non-soluble silicones are also said to protect the hair shaft by creating an occlusive layer, reducing frizz and smoothing the hair,” explains Marisa Garshick, certified dermatologist hairstylist. At New York. She explains that you'll find various silicones in the ingredient lists of many anti-frizz or straightening shampoos, conditioners, and hair serums.
Garshick warns that overuse of silicone-containing products (especially those containing insoluble dimethicone) can eventually cause buildup on the scalp, which can lead to issues like clogged pores and buildup in hair follicles. which can cause red bumps and tenderness. “Other problems that may be associated with buildup include an itchy, flaky and inflamed scalp, and in some cases the hair may become very dry due to insufficient moisture penetration, or it may appear fat if, paradoxically, they start to become more to produce oil,” he says.
Samaria tells Allure that she's seen this many times with her clients in the salon. "The instant shine and luxurious fullness we all love when using products containing silicones is often a temporary fix," she says, explaining that with long-term use, the buildup caused by non-soluble silicones weighs down the hair and breaks it can extend. . and loops
Thomas agrees, adding that silicones, when used in excess, do more than weigh hair down. "Because they form a 'film' around hair follicles, silicones can also prevent other beneficial ingredients from entering your hair, which can cause your other products to lose value over time if they aren't washed properly," she said. Spinnato adds that since silicones are designed to keep environmental aggressors away from the hair shaft, they also block out some not so good substances like oil, dirt, and dead skin cells. moral of the story? Moderation and a good cleansing schedule are key.
What hair types tolerate silicones best and who should avoid them altogether?
While silicones don't necessarily harm anyone's hair, Garshick says people with coarse, thick, curly, and dry hair typically get the best results from products that contain silicones. This is due to its ability to condition hair by reducing moisture loss, reduce frizz by making hair less sensitive to humidity, and help smooth, smooth and add shine to hair by reducing streaks. moisture on the surface of the hair.
Those with hair on either end of the texture spectrum — super fine and fine or super thick and curly — may want to be more careful. Garshick adds that regardless of silicone type or hair texture, it can be helpful to use silicone-free products a few times a week if you notice buildup or feel your hair feels weighed down.
Spinnato explains that using hair products with silicones is a balancing act, and while people with curly and Afro-textured hair can benefit from using non-dissolvable silicone hair products in the short term, the daily use is not long term or recommended. “Silicones get a bad rap for drying Afro-textured hair by locking in moisture,” she says. "Over time, the silicone can build up, leading to a feeling of dryness and a dull look. In fact, you may find that your hair becomes weaker and more prone to breakage.
Samaria backed up Spinnato, explaining that if you have low porosity hair, which is more common in people with wavy, curly, and frizzy textures, most of your hair cuticles are already closed. This already makes it difficult for moisture to penetrate the hair, so using an insoluble silicone like dimethicone (which forms an occlusive layer on the hair) makes it even more difficult over time. "To help your hair maintain light body and luxurious, effortless movement, it's important to keep silicones to a minimum," she says.
As counterintuitive as that may sound, Velázquez cautions, "One exception is people who tend to have more days between washes due to protective styling." She adds that those people may want to use products with non-dissolvable silicone and a moisture barrier to help style hold in place despite the elements.
Read Also : How can I start affiliate marketing with no money?For his part, Thomas explains that people with fine, fine, limp hair should not use silicones, or if they do, products with a water-soluble silicone like Cyclomethicone are the best options. "Thinner hair types generally have more oil flowing from the scalp into the hair shaft," she says. "As a result, applying too many silicone-containing products can weigh this type of hair down and make it look greasy and unkempt."